Selecting Rose Plants

Picking out a rose plant may sound easy, but gardeners are often faced with many options such as bare-root, containerized, grafted, own-root, and various grades. All of these options may play a part in the decision-making process of selecting roses for the garden. Of prime importance is selecting varieties that will fit into a garden based upon size of the garden, local growing conditions, and varieties that the grower likes and feels will fit into his plan.

Ways To Buy Roses

Rose plants can be purchased locally through garden centers and other retail outlets or by mail. Keep in mind that local outlets can offer the gardener flexibility but may not have a wide selection; mail order tends to offer a wide selection but the flexibility as to when plants need to be purchased is limited. Plants bought locally are sold either bare-root or potted. Mail order plants are almost always sold bare-root. Which is better? When ordered or bought from a reputable dealer, both are good, and it's just a matter of preference. Many older roses are only available bare root through specialty mail order nurseries.
Bare-root roses are dormant plants that are sold to the gardener with no soil around the roots; instead, they have moist packing material such as peat or wood shavings around the roots. Bare-root plants are sold in garden centers as "packaged" plants. Packaged as well as mail order roses may also have their canes covered with wax. This helps prevent drying while in storage or in the retail store. The wax doesn't need to be removed. It will eventually degrade and break away from the canes.
Canes on bare-root plants should be plump and green with smooth, unshriveled bark. They should also feel heavy. A dried-out plant will feel light, and the twigs will be brittle. Bare-root plants should be ordered with instructions to ship them when planting is suitable for your area. If bare-root packaged roses are bought locally, try to select them as soon as possible after the shipment is received at the store. Stores generally hold packaged plants in warm areas that cause them to break dormancy, producing premature, weak growth that can devitalize the plant. If bare-root roses can't be planted immediately, they may be held up to two weeks in an area that is cool (40°F). Keep the canes and roots moist during this time by covering them with moist material such as peat moss or wood shavings.
If plants need to be held longer than 2 weeks, it is a good idea to heel them in outdoors. This is done by laying the plants in a shallow trench and covering the roots with soil. The canes may also be covered if drying is a concern.
Garden centers can offer both containerized and potted roses. Containerized plants are bought as bare-root plants by the nurserymen, placed in containers, and sold as growing plants that same season. The root development may not be very extensive with these plants and so extra care may be needed when transplanting to the garden. Some potted plants may have been grown at the nursery for a longer time resulting in a very extensive root system. The extensive root system holds the soil ball together resulting in an easier job of transplanting without the problem of the soil ball falling apart. Due to economics, one is not likely to find many of these plants for sale unless they were overwintered from the previous season. Containerized plants can be planted any time during the growing season with spring or early season planting preferred for northern growing areas. Fall planting of roses can be done, but may need extra winter protection and the earlier plants are planted, the better. Bare-root roses can be shipped and planted only in the spring while they are dormant.

Budded and Own-root Roses

Roses are propagated commercially in one of two ways. The most common method is to take a bud from a desired cultivar and graft it onto a species rose rootstock. Rootstocks used are often Rosa multiflora, Rosa canna, or Rosa laxa. These are selected because of their ability to produce vigorous root systems. The place where the cultivar and rootstock are joined becomes distinctively swollen. This is referred to as the bud union or "nob." All canes of the cultivar come from the bud union.
From a gardener's point of view, this produces a rose that tends to have a better root system. From a nurseryman's point of view, budding results in plants that reach the market quicker. Less time is spent in the production fields.
There are several pitfalls to be aware of with budded roses. Rootstocks of budded roses often send up suckers that produce leaves and flowers that are totally different from the budded cultivar. Suckers are also a common result when budded roses are killed to the ground during severe winters. That is why some roses mysteriously change identities between seasons, producing long, thin canes with different leaves and different flowers. Other problems that can occur are graft incompatibility, resulting in reduced vigor and death, as well as the transmission of rose mosaic, a virus infection that reduces the rose's performance. Budding is often the only option in commercial production since not all roses can be successfully rooted or produce a very poor root system on their own. Budding may also be the only way to maintain a specific cultivar.
The other method of propagation is softwood cuttings, producing roses offered as own-root roses. Many of the old garden roses are offered as own-root roses and provide distinct advantages, especially for northern gardeners. With own-root roses, the problem of off-type suckers disappears because all shoots coming from the base of the plant are identical to the cultivar that you purchased. Plants grown on their own roots also tend to be longer-lived. Also, since the root system is genetically identical to the canes, one is assured that the new basal canes produced each year are true to the cultivar. This is especially important where severe winters often kill roses to the ground. Own-root roses may be slow-growing initially and may be smaller in size and less robust, but they soon develop into very durable plants.
Many roses, both modern and old garden roses, are now offered as either budded or own-root roses. Suppliers should be able to tell the gardener what type of plants they offer. Some nurseries even offer custom budding or rooting services for some very difficult-to-find roses.

Rose Flower Meanings

Ever wondered about rose flower meanings before you gift roses to your beloved?
Roses have inspired people over the ages to develop a language of roses by ascribing meanings to color, variety and number of roses being gifted. Traditionally, the rose is considered the flower of love. Nothing beats red roses in saying "I Love You" on Valentine's Day.
It is always good to know the symbolic meanings associated with roses when you gift them to your loved ones. When you consciously choose a certain color, variety or number of roses for someone, you bring a whole new depth to the gesture of gifting roses. The Flower Expert compiles a concise list of rose flower meanings below.

Rose Flower Meanings based on Color

Color of Roses	Rose Color Meaning
	Red Roses: A red rose is an unmistakable expression of love. Red roses convey deep emotions - be it love, longing or desire. Red Roses can also be used to convey respect, admiration or devotion. A deep red rose can be used to convey heartfelt regret and sorrow. The number of red roses has special romantic meanings associated with them. 12 red roses is the most popular of all which conveys "Be mine" and "I love you"
	White Roses: White is the color of purity, chastity and innocence. White flowers are generally associated with new beginnings and make an ideal accompaniment to a first-time bride walking down the aisle. White flowers can be used to convey sympathy or humility. They also are indicative of spirituality. Hence, white roses also follow suit.
	Yellow Roses: Yellow roses are an expression of exuberance. Yellow roses evoke sunny feelings of joy, warmth and welcome. They are symbols of friendship and caring. The yellow rose, like the other roses, does not carry an undertone of romance. It indicates purely platonic emotions.
	Pink Roses: There are a lot of variations of the pink rose. Over all, pink roses are used to convey gentle emotions such as admiration, joy and gratitude. Light pink rose blooms are indicative of sweetness and innocence. Deep pink rose blooms convey deep gratitude and appreciation. Pink roses also connote elegance and grace.
	Orange Roses: While a yellow rose reminds us of the sun, an orange rose reminds us of a fiery blaze. These fiery blooms signify passion and energy. Orange roses can be used to express intense desire, pride and fervor. They also convey a sense of fascination. These flowers rival only the red roses as messengers of passion in romance.
	Lavender Roses: A Lavender rose like its color conveys enchantment. It also expresses "love at first sight". Darker shades of lavender roses (close to purple) convey a sense of regal majesty and splendor. These roses are used to express fascination and adoration.
	Blue Roses: A perfectly blue rose is still elusive like the perfectly black rose. Blue roses cannot be achieved naturally so they represent the unattainable or the mysterious. Blue roses therefore embody the desire for the unattainable. They say "I can't have you but I can't stop thinking about you"
	Green roses: Green is the color of harmony, of opulence, of fertility. It is also a color indicative of peace and tranquility. Green roses (these are off-white roses with shades of green) can symbolize best wishes for a prosperous new life or wishes for recovery of good health
	Black Roses: Black is the color of death and farewell. A black rose, like the blue rose remains elusive. What we know as black roses are actually really dark red roses. Black roses convey the death of a feeling or idea. Sending black roses to someone indicates the death of the relationship.
	Mixed Roses: By mixing rose blooms of different colors purposefully, you can create a bouquet of emotions. For example, a bouquet of red and white roses would mean I love you intensely and my intentions are honorable. A random mix of roses would convey mixed feelings or send a message: "I don't know what my feelings are yet but I sure do like you enough to send you roses."

The History of Roses

Roses have a long and colorful history. They have been symbols of love, beauty, war, and politics. The rose is, according to fossil evidence, 35 million years old. In nature, the genus Rosa has some 150 species spread throughout the Northern Hemisphere, from Alaska to Mexico and including northern Africa. Garden cultivation of roses began some 5,000 years ago, probably in China. During the Roman period, roses were grown extensively in the Middle East. They were used as confetti at celebrations, for medicinal purposes, and as a source of perfume. Roman nobility established large public rose gardens in the south of Rome. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the popularity of roses seemed to rise and fall depending on gardening trends of the time.
During the fifteenth century, the rose was used as a symbol for the factions fighting to control England. The white rose symbolized York, and the red rose symbolized Lancaster, as a result, the conflict became known as the "War of the Roses."
Roses were in such high demand during the seventeenth century that royalty considered roses or rose water as legal tender, and they were often used as barter and for payments. Napoleon's wife Josephine established an extensive collection of roses at Chateau de Malmaison, an estate seven miles west of Paris in the 1800s. This garden became the setting for Pierre Joseph Redoute's work as a botanical illustrator. In 1824, he completed his watercolor collection "Les Rose," which is still considered one of the finest records of botanical illustration.
It wasn't until the late eighteenth century that cultivated roses were introduced into Europe from China. Most modern-day roses can be traced back to this ancestry. These introductions were repeat bloomers, making them unusual and of great interest to hybridizers, setting the stage for breeding work with native roses to select for hardiness and a long bloom season. Many of these early efforts by plant breeders are of great interest to today's gardeners.
Roses are once again enjoying a resurgence in popularity, specifically, shrub roses and old garden roses. Gardeners realize that these roses fit the lifestyle of today's gardeners who want roses that are not as demanding with regard to disease control, offer excellent floral quality, have excellent winter hardiness, and fit into shrub borders and perennial gardens without seeming out of place.
To be successful in growing roses in Midwest gardens, one needs to be aware of some basic considerations. Attention to plant selection, a basic knowledge of the wide array of classes available, basic culture information, and information about potential disease and insect problems will go a long way in making roses an enjoyable addition to the garden.
This short guide to rose gardening will hopefully help sort through some of the confusion about roses and entice you to include one or more of these plants in your garden.

Planting Roses

     Take a peak at these suggestions for choosing an area to plant your rose, as well as step by step planting instructions.
Site: good drainage, and 4-5 hours of sun.
     First of all, it is very important to choose a sunny area of the garden that gets at least 4 to 5 hours of sun for your rose. Do not crowd your rose with other trees and plants. Some roses, such as climbers and shrubs, don’t mind company, but most like to mix with other roses or other non-invasive plants. If you’re replacing an older rose bush, it is important to remove an 18 cubic inch area of soil and replace it with fresh soil. A newly planted rose doesn’t like to grow in the same soil that an older rose bush has been in. Picky darn thing isn’t it!
Step-by-Step Rose Planting:
Here are the basics:
1) Dig a hole, slightly larger than the pot size or root system of your
    rose bush.
2) Add a small handful of bonemeal to the planting hole. Spade in
    some compost or peatmoss to loosen the soil. Mix the soil you
    took out of the hole with more compost or peat moss.
3) Remove the rose from the pot. Carefully place in the hole and
    shovel the extra soil around the new plant. Plant the rose with
    the crown slightly deeper than the original soil. The crown or bud
    union should be about 1 inch under the soil
4) Gently firm the rose into its new home and water well.
5) Stand back and watch it grow!
     Important note!! NEVER fertilize a new rose bush with anything
     other than bonemeal.
Planting Your Rose Bush:
A little more detail:
     If you have received bare-root bushes from a mail order nursery or have some healed in from winter storage you may want to soak them in a bucket of water for a few hours before planting. If you have purchased your roses in containers, you do not have to pre-soak them before planting.
     Dig a hole large enough for the root mass and loosen the bottom of the hole. Depending on your soil type, you may want to spade some compost into the hole along with a sprinkle of bone meal. Bone meal is a slow acting source of Phosphorus and promotes healthy root growth. I like to mix the soil from the hole with some additional compost and another light sprinkle of bone meal.
     Place the rose in the hole spreading the roots slightly. I plant mine with the bud union (crown) slightly below the soil level (about 1-2 inches after a couple years of mulching). Refill the hole and make sure the soil settles around the roots of your plant, then finish filling the hole. Just before putting the final couple inches of soil over the roots, water your new plant and let it drain before the final topping. I do a little dance around each of my new roses, just to firm the soil lightly and also because it’s fun. Nothing thrills me more than seeing a newly planted rose bush. Ohhh the excitement of what’s to come!
Planting Depth Of Roses:
     Rose growers will argue until they’re blue in the face about the correct planting depth for roses, but it really depends on the climate you live in. If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult with the people growing roses in your area. If you’re buying own-root type roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than their potted level. Again, this varies according to climate. I’m told that sun on the crown of ageing roses will help promote basal breaks from the bud union. I wonder if any significant studies have been done on this issue. Some of my roses produce wonderful basal breaks from well below the soil level, others do not. It seems to reflect more on the variety of the rose than anything else.

Therapeutic Benefits of Roses

     Aside from providing an aesthetic appeal, which contributes to the overall pleasure and feeling of well being, roses have a genuine practical use in our regimens of good health. Rose oil and rose water are derived from the flowers and rose hips have many valuable properties.
     It is suspected that the rose was probably the very first flower from which rose oil and rose water were distilled; possibly in the 10th Century Persia. Today, most of the rose oils are still produced in that region of the world. A very large quantity of rose petals is needed to produce a very small quantity of oil. Thus, it is very costly. Thankfully only a small amount of rose oil is needed in therapeutic preparations. It is not used in its concentrated state, but rather in a carrier oil such as almond, jojoba, and grapeseed.
     Generally rose oil and rose water (a by-product of distillation) are used topically rather than internally; with the exception of aromatherapy.In this case the rose essence may be inhaled, via steam or diffusion. Three varieties of rose are used in commercial production of rose oil and rose water: Rosa Centifolia, Rosa Damascena and Rosa Gallica. The product will vary slightly in colour between these species but the therapeutic benefits are the same.
     The use of the rose is far and varied. It has a long history in its use in folk remedies, especially in the area of skincare. It is suitable for all skin types, but it is especially valuable for dry, sensitive or aging skins. It has a tonic and astringent effect on the capillaries just below the skin surface, which makes it useful in diminishing the redness caused by enlarged capillaries. It is important to ensure that the product contains the genuine natural rose oil. Many manufacturers label their products containing rose essence but it could be synthetic. Synthetic rose ingredients have no therapeutic value at all! Remember, with authentic rose oil, a little goes a long way.Certainly rosewater is a less expensive way to provide skincare. It is very soothing to irritated skin.It is also a tonic and antiseptic. Rosewater has been shown to be very valuable as an antiseptic in eye infections.
     The rose also offers a soothing property to the nerves and emotional /psychological state of mind. It is regarded as a mild sedative and anti-depressant. It is increasingly used in treatments for conditions of stress: nervous tension, peptic ulcers, heart disease, among others. There is indication that rose essence may also positively influence digestion, bile secretion, womb disorders and circulation. In addition, a tea made with rose petals (pour 150 ml of boiling water over 1 /2 grams of rose petals) often soothes a mild sore throat.
     Rose hips (the flowers which have swollen to seed) are an excellent source of vitamins A, B3, C, D and E. They also contain bioflavonoids, citric acid, flavonoids, fructose, malic acid, tannins and zinc. Taken in the form of tea they are good for infections, particularly bladder infections. Rose hip tea is also used in the treatment of diarrhea. It is an especially good source of vitamin C.
     To best use rose oil for topical purposes (i.e. skin care), use approximately 8 drops of essential rose oil for every 10 ml of carrier oil. Apply directly onto skin. Rosewater may be used with abandon. There is no such thing as too much of it. For emotional wholeness and wellness, rose oil may also be used in a room diffuser, aromatherapy ring (a brass ring placed atop a hot light bulb will work to evaporate the essential essence throughout the room) or in steaming hot water on the stove. Whatever works!
     To brew rose hip tea, which by the way is truly delicious, roughly chop up entire rose hips. Cover with distilled or purified water and boil for 30 minutes (longer if desired). Strain through a fine strainer or cheesecloth and add a bit of honey if desired. One can also find Rose Hip Tea in the local health food stores.  The essence of rose need not only be used to treat ailments. Whether inhaled and enjoyed from a freshly cut bouquet of sumptuous blooms or splashed on as rosewater after a shower or bath, it is simply a pleasure to be enjoyed by all!

Compost Mixed With Soil

     Shredded organic materials heat up quicker and decompose faster. The organisms that break down organic materials need oxygen to live and reproduce, so it makes sense that the smaller the organic materials are the more they are exposed to oxygen, and consequently the quicker they break down and are decomposed. Even a pile as small as 3 square feet will be effective in rewarding you with wonderful compost for your garden.
     Whatever ingredients you choose to use in your pile remember to have a variety if possible. A more varied pile is likely to decompose quicker and maintain a higher internal temperature. As your pile starts to grow, turn it twice a week with a pitchfork and keep it damp but not wet. Turning the pile will aerate it and also move less decomposed matter into the center. As organisms start to break down all the layers, you will notice that the center of the pile becomes very hot. This is a sign that your compost is working!
     Finished compost is not soil but it is one of the most important ingredients to healthy soil. Add finished compost to your garden soil and work it in before you begin planting in the spring. Compost should never smell bad if you just follow a few simple rules. If you find that your compost pile has an unpleasant odor it is probably because of lack of air or an overabundance of nitrogen rich materials. First of all, make sure your pile receives at least a half-day of sunshine. The second thing would be to make sure you have the right mixture of ingredients to make your compost do the job its supposed to do, which is break down organic material into available nutrients for your garden. The third most important thing is to maintain moisture in your compost pile
     Ideally you should begin your compost pile by layering the organic materials. Be careful not to overuse any one particular ingredient as it may upset the balance that is needed to help the compost break down more quickly. Try and add green (nitrogen) and brown (carbon) matter in alternating layers. Anything dry is considered brown and anything wet like vegetable peelings and fresh mown grass is considered green.
     The simplest method for the home composter is to use roughly equal portions of carbon and nitrogen materials. Introducing air into your compost pile is very important as the more air you put in contact with the materials the more you stimulate microbial activity. Water is also essential in the composting process. Effective compost should be as damp as a wrung out sponge. Too much water will force the air out of the pile and cause it to smell and too little water will slow down the decomposition process. Test your pile by tightly squeezing a handful; if water comes out it is too wet
     A lot of home gardeners are concerned about the “perfect” mix or recipe for making effective compost. Don’t worry. Whether you arrange your pile in precise layers of nitrogen and carbon and turn it every day or whether you just throw in whatever you have and let it sit until it rots; either way the end result will be compost.
     It really all depends on how involved you wish to be and how quickly you want to use your compost. If you want your pile to decay quickly then you must take the time to chop up large fibrous materials and woody stalks and branches. Turn the pile and add carbon rich materials. As well it is a good idea to add a layer of soil over kitchen wastes so as not to attract flies and other animals. You will know that your compost is done when it becomes dark brown or black and resembles commercial potting soil, just lumpier. Keep your finished compost covered so it is not exposed to rain or snow or it will lose many of its nutrients. The outer portions of your pile that have not fully decomposed can be added to the next pile as a starter mix.
     Making compost is one of the most rewarding and satisfying activities a home gardener can be involved in. You are nurturing and enriching your soil and at the same time responsibly recycling your own home wastes. No wonder organic methods of cultivation, including composting have become so popular.

Composting is truly BLACK GOLD for your garden!

Composting,
Black Gold For Roses      One of the easiest and most rewarding things that you can do to ensure that your roses are healthy and strong, is to top dress them with home made compost. Because it provides plant nutrients in a balanced and ready-to-use form and enriches the texture and structure of the soil, compost is truly black gold for your roses!
     Your gardening success depends on the health of your soil, and the health of your soil is directly related to whether or not you enrich it with compost. This rich, earthy substance is what remains after hundreds of different organisms including bacteria, fungi, worms and insects break down organic materials.
     Compost is the result of the activity of a myriad of tiny organisms that need two main compounds for their life processes – carbon for energy and nitrogen for growth and reproduction. As the differing organisms go through the organic materials, the byproducts undergo progressive decomposition and eventually most of the digestible material is consumed and transformed, leaving behind a rich soil amendment. Compost is an outstanding and invaluable source of organic matter for the home gardener.
     The benefits of a healthy garden will repay you many times over for the relatively small amount of work it takes to make your own compost. Garden soil that is regularly amended with compost will have improved soil texture and structure, increased water retention in sandy soils and loosened clay soils, control pH, feed helpful earthworms, control weeds, aerate the soil, retain moisture, provide healthier, more productive and more disease resistant plants, promote better drainage, provide soil nutrients, increase beneficial microorganism activity, provide mulch and recycle garden and kitchen waste. Can you ask for anything more?! Compost is indeed black gold for your garden.
     Furthermore, compost will warm the soil in the spring, stimulating plants to grow sooner in the season, and cool the soil in the summer allowing plants to perform better in the summer heat. Also, if you keep your garden well composted you will not need to water and fertilize as often. With all these beneficial reason to make your own compost, you can see why interest in composting has literally exploded in the last decade!
     The art and practice of composting is an ancient one – dating back thousands of years. The ancient Romans and Greeks deliberately piled animal manures and soil in such a way as to aid in decomposition. The Bible also speaks of it. The value of crushed bones, wool waste, wood ashes and lime is spoken of in old Arabic manuscripts. The Medieval church preserved the knowledge and composting continued through the Dark Ages, Renaissance and in the New World by the native Indian tribes and early European settlers.
     Since then, researchers and agricultural scientists have refined composting techniques and developed new products to make the process easier. In fact, for 2,000 years or more, composting and manuring were the only methods available for farmers to enrich their land and make it yield. It has only been since the nineteenth century that chemical fertilizers have been available
     For the backyard gardener, composting does not need to be laborious or time consuming. Effective compost can be done as simply as you wish. My first endeavors into composting were simply a heap of leaves and grass in the corner of our back yard. Another simple way would be to pound four wooden sticks or metal stakes into the ground and wrap with chicken wire. As far as the materials used, you can make it quite easily by simply recycling ordinary garden and kitchen waste from around your home.
     In fact, nearly anything that once lived is a candidate for your home compost pile. Grass clippings, chopped leaves, vegetable peelings, egg shells, pine needles, wood ashes, shredded paper (but not glossy paper), seaweed, hair clippings, sawdust (not cedar or black walnut) coffee grounds and tea bags, barnyard manures, alfalfa pellets and weeds (before they have developed seeds) are all excellent ingredients for your homemade compost. Remember to exclude human and pet excretement, meat products (they attract animals and pests) and diseased plants.